Wednesday, 13 September 2023

Kent

I can't recall the TV programme that we watched where they were renovating the writing room at Sissinghurst. I have a feeling that it may have been Michael Portillo that visited there. I never cared much for him as a politician but, over the years, he has grown on me, with his railway journeys and colourful attire. Whichever programme it was, a seed was sown and I hankered to pay a visit.

We waited until the school term started and then R looked at accommodation in the area. He gave me a choice of a hotel on a golf course or a shepherd's hut. Needless to say, I chose the latter. We were only going for 3 days - Saturday morning to Monday evening, and the hut looked picturesque and well equipped. There was a wood-burning stove and I pictured cosy, autumnal evenings snuggled up inside.  As it turned out, that weekend saw the UK having a bit of a heatwave, so the stove didn't get so much as a look in. 

We set off bright and early on the Saturday morning, avoiding motorways and sticking to the A and B roads. It was a pleasant journey and we arrived at Sissinghurst just before lunch time.

Originally a pig farm, Sissinghurst has been in turn: a moated manor house; a Renaissance courtyard house; a prison camp for 3000 captured French sailors during the 7 Years War; a poor workhouse, and is today a working farm with cattle, sheep and pigs. Vita Sackville-West and her husband Harold Nicolson bought Sissinghurst Castle in 1930 and their home and garden are now world famous. The garden is divided into a series of 'rooms', each with a different planting scheme, colour and scent. It was idyllic and we spent several hours exploring, pausing briefly for lunch. Sadly, the National Trust vegan pasty that I had been looking forward to wasn't gluten free. Yes, I have been forced to add another dietary restriction, this one by necessity rather than choice. Vegan and gluten free - aren't I the one to invite round to dinner! In case of such an eventuality, I had packed emergency sandwiches and was happy with those. They did sell a very nice vegan vanilla ice-cream in a gluten free cone, which hit the spot nicely as dessert.

Known to Vita and Harold as the 'Big Room', the library was converted from the farm stables. Filled with 4000 books, it is presented as they would have used it, with furniture from Vita's childhood home and souvenirs from their travels. The 78 step climb up to the top of the tower revealed a stunning view of the estate. On the way up, Vita's writing room was protected by a barred doorway. Here, she created novels, poetry and gardening articles - I loved it!

Here then are some photos of our trip to Sissinghurst. Having had my camera stolen a few weeks ago, I managed to purchase a replacement on eBay for the princely sum of £35, including P&P, so I am back in business photography wise.

The Big Room:

The Tower:

Vita's writing Room:

Harold's writing room:

Sunflowers in the vegetable garden:

Having exhausted the delights of Sissinghurst, we set off to find our shepherd's hut. It was charming, set in a beautiful orchard and full of mod cons.







We popped into the local Indian Restaurant in Headcorn for dinner. It was fine, although nothing special, then returned to the hut to settle down for the night. The mattress was comfy, the hut with both sets of windows open was cool, and the owls hooting lulled us to sleep.

We decided to visit Canterbury on the Sunday. The Cathedral proved to be a nice respite from the oppressive heat outside. We paused to listen to one of the volunteers telling the story of Thomas Becket. I leaned across to R and whispered that she looked very like Jan Leeming the former BBC news presenter. It was only when we got close enough to read her badge that we realised that it was in fact her. Apparently, she has been a volunteer there for many years. She was animated, interesting and brought the story to life.
Joey, built by students and staff at Canterbury College to commemorate the centenary of the end of WWI.



The water tower:

A beautiful, if slightly listing, second hand bookshop:
A rather more successful lunch. We had a choice of 2 vegan toasties on Gluten free bread and a choice of 3 (yes, count them!) vegan, GF cakes. I was very happy.  :O)



We finished off the day with a brief trip to Herne Bay. It was close to Canterbury, so it would have been rude not to. Owing to the unseasonably good weather, it was very crowded, but we found a quieter place to have a quick paddle (I had forgotten my costume), collect some hag stones and enjoy the compulsory chippies on the beach. Driving back past Whitstable, we decided that that would have been a much better place to stop. Quieter and with fewer loud people flashing acres of sun-burned, tattooed flesh.


For our last day, we had planned to visit Hever Castle. A brief glance at the road atlas, however,  revealed that Churchill's family home, Chartwell, was nearby. There was so much to see in this part of Kent that a few extra days wouldn't have gone amiss. Chartwell it was, and I'm so glad that we decided to visit. Not only was it interesting and beautiful but they were having a heritage day, so entry was free!


The swimming pool where the family used to bathe:
One of the 3 interlocking fish ponds. Churchill used to sit in the blue chair to paint and contemplate:
Clementine's rose garden:









Finally, a National Trust kitchen!

Churchill's studio, full of hundreds of his paintings:


An example of Churchill's brick laying. We goggled at the number of hobbies and interests that the great man had on top of his punishing work schedule. I've no idea how he found time for everything.
The Marycot - the very upmarket Wendy House built for Churchill's daughter Mary:

The vegetable garden, complete with chickens and bees:
We took a liking to the pig made in Africa out of recycled oil drums in the shop on the way out. He came home with us as a souvenir of our short but lovely holiday. His name is Winston and he now sits in our garden sheltering under a tree.

Our final destination was on the way home. We stopped in the Ashdown Forest to pay tribute to A.A. Milne and play Pooh sticks on the famous bridge.
The lone pine and the heffalump trap:
Owl's house:
We took sticks with us and had 3 games - I won the 1st, R the second and for the deciding round, our sticks joined in the water and came under together. A draw was happily declared.

Pooh's house. The letter box was filled with post from children and the pots filled with tiny jars of honey, brought as gifts:
Piglet's House:

We arrived home at about 8pm, tired but happy. It had been a glorious few days, blessed by good weather.

Just a couple of extra photos to share:
My finished Homestead Shawl; pattern by Melody Hoffmann:
A trip to the Southern Wool Show at the racecourse. A few sneaky purchases came home with me:

That's all for the moment. I hope you have enjoyed our unseasonably nice weather. Here's to a wonderful autumn.

Toodle pip for now. x

4 comments:

  1. Glad you’ve been able to get a replacement camera at such a reasonable price. What a great few days and I absolutely love the shepherds cottage. I remember seeing that programme about the writing room at Sissinghurst. I think it was a series of programmes behind the scenes at the national trust. Sadly when we visited a couple of years ago it was still being restored. It looks beautiful now.
    WoW getting to meet Jan Leeming. I remember her well! You can tell my age lol! I think you made the right decision travelling by minor roads. I remember how awful the motorway journeys were when we visited. B x

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  2. Looks like you had a fabulous time! I was at the Southern Wool Show too! Loved it!

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  3. What a wonderful trip to Kent, somewhere I'd love to explore. Sissinghurst looks wonderful, as does the shepherd's hut. Oh for a writing room. The pig is absolutely brilliant, and how lovely that Jan Leeming shows people round Canterbury Cathedral now, well spotted! I have tried making gluten free bread lately - it's been quite good fresh. Lovely new yarn, and a very good job on the shawl, very professional indeed, I love it. CJ xx

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  4. Wow, you packed a lot into three days! Loved everything, especially the shepherd's hut. Great that you could take internal photos, it's a shame so many places won't let you these days. I adored the pig and the heffalump trap!!! That is a lovely shawl. Good to hear you managed to eat well in the end.xxx

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