India #4 Sloth Bears and Weddings

R has tested positive for Covid. The plus side is that I no longer have to isolate upstairs and am typing this whilst sitting on the sofa, having just made some mushroom soup for lunch. 😀 My sense of taste and smell is a bit off, but at least it will feel warming.

 March 12th

Today we had booked a tour of the Wildlife SOS Agra Bear Rescue Facility; the largest Sloth Bear rescue facility in the world. It is home to nearly 200 sloth bears, all of whom were rescued from the horrendous practice of bear dancing.

Established in 1999, the facility is located on an 8 hectare site within the Sur Sarovar Bird Sanctuary. The practice of enslaving bears for dancing has been illegal in India since the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972. Unfortunately, the act wasn't properly enforced and hundreds of bears remained enslaved. Bear cubs were poached from the forest, often their mothers were killed, and then sold on the illegal market to the Kalandars, who have used the dancing bear as a source of income for centuries.

The documentary that we watched at the facility was horrific. Without anaesthetic, a metal bar was forced through the cub's muzzle and a rope or nose ring attached. Pulling upwards on the rope causes them to stand up to avoid the pain and thereby 'dance'. They spend their lives chained up or in a cage. Their canine teeth are knocked out and they are beaten into submission.

When they arrive at the facility, the bears are put into quarantine for 90 days. They are given a health check up and treated for any diseases, parasites and wounds. They are vaccinated and then observed, so that the keepers get to know the bear's character. After the 90 days, they are placed into large socialisation areas, where their behaviour and personality are further monitored. They are then matched to a group, based on their personality, and moved to large free range areas. Because they have been captive for most of their lives, they are unlikely to be released into the wild.

Some of the bears we met were Elvis - who was so relaxed around people that his special keeper happily cleaned out his pond etc with him present. Ron (there was a bit of a Harry Potter theme), Molly, who had a child-like sense of wonder and liked Arthur, and Arthur who, like Marlene Dietrich, just wanted to be alone!

The Kalander people are paid for the bear that is being confiscated. This allows them to continue to support their families whilst they are trained in another source of income: sewing; jewellery making and other forms of handicraft. Their details and fingerprints are taken and, if they are ever caught with another animal, they are sent immediately to gaol. 

No photography was allowed at the facility. We had a full tour, meeting several of the bears and learning about their history and characters. Many of the bears are now old and anaesthetic is risky. They have therefore been taught to put a paw through a special doorway in their sleeping enclosure, if blood has to be taken or injections given. They are trained to do this using bottles of honey water which they slurped up greedily. Their diet consists of porridge twice a day (just like in Goldilocks!), with honey and dates. Lots of fresh fruit and then enrichment at night where food is smeared onto trees. This encourges the bears to resort to their normal patterns of behaviour.

The one drawback about the facility is that you have to pay quite a steep entrance fee to the bird sanctuary in order to access the rescue facility; including a camera charge. I wouldn't have minded this so much if it hadn't been migration season, so very few birds were present.

We bought a few small gifts at the shop - some made by the Kalandar people. R bought a hat advertising the facility and then immediately lost it at our next hotel!

Ooh look, a bird!

Bees found on one of the trees in the bird sanctuary. We were very excited at the time, only to see several more nests over the next few days:

We also saw an inquisitive monkey who clung to the car. Unfortunately, our driver chased it off before I could get my camera out - it would have made a brilliant picture! 

On the way back to the city, we called in at Akbar's Tomb - the tomb of the Mughal Emperor Akbar, built in 1605-1613 by his son.

The South Gate of Akbar's Tomb

The 4 tiered pyramid building of the tomb itself. Built of red sandstone and white marble:

More bees!

A vegan thali lunch at the Good Vibes Cafe. It was excellent, some of the best food that we ate in India. It was only slightly marred by the extremely loud Australian group at the next table! :O)

View from our balcony table:

We then returned to the hotel for an afternoon by the pool. There was a large group of Indian ladies by the poolside, present for a wedding later that night. After they had watched me ploughing up and down for a while, we got to talking whilst I sat drying on my sunbed. They were lovely and yes, they did ask for the usual selfie! I obliged and then lent one lady my hat and sunglasses so she could pose for photos. She had never been in a pool before. One of the younger women bought her a lovely costume and she braved the water for the first time. They invited me to the wedding later if we were around, saying that  'Indian weddings are for everyone'. 

Later that evening, the wedding started. It was a Sikh/Hindu wedding and an absolute delight - so joyful and full of colour. The drummers heralding the arrival of the wedding party were brilliant. 

The bridegroom arriving on horseback. The horse must have been either very well trained or deaf!

The family dancing ahead of the bridegroom

At this point, we were stood on the side watching. My friend from the pool earlier spotted me and invited me to join in with the dancing. I'm not a great dancer but it was such a happy occasion that I agreed. Sadly, no sooner had I started than a security guard stepped in and told me that it wasn't allowed. We consoled ourselves by blowing kisses instead.

I feel that the guard was perhaps a little overzealous. Not only did he stop me, he also dragged away one of the drummers hired by the party. We're not quite sure why, he just seemed to be drumming.

R and another hotel guest were then given ready made turbans by 2 of the party. They didn't want them returning and it now sits on a bookcase upstairs, a memento of a truly beautiful occasion.

Anyway, I'd better go and see if R can face some soup for lunch.

Toodle pip for now. x